Calathea rufibarba (Goeppertia rufibarba)

Furry Feather Calathea loves plenty of bright indirect or filtered light.

An east or north facing window can work beautifully, while brighter south or west facing rooms are usually better with the plant set a little further back from the glass.

Some softer morning or evening light is normally fine, but strong direct summer sunshine can bleach or scorch the leaves.

It can cope with medium light, but very dark conditions will slow growth and reduce that lovely dense Jungle habit.

Furry Feather Calathea likes the compost to stay lightly and consistently moist while it is actively growing.

Let the upper surface begin to dry, then give the plant a proper drink and allow any excess to drain away.

Try not to let the whole root ball become bone dry, but equally do not leave the roots sitting permanently in saturated compost.

During the darker UK winter months the pot will stay moist for longer, so watering naturally needs to slow down.

Check the compost, not the calendar. Your Calathea does not know it is watering day.

Yep. This one earns the Tap Water Diva badge.

Furry Feather Calathea can be sensitive to the minerals and salts found in particularly hard UK tap water, which may contribute to brown tips and crispy leaf edges over time.

Rainwater is brilliant if you have it, while suitable filtered water is another good option. Just remember that water quality is only one part of the puzzle. Dry air, inconsistent watering and unhealthy roots can all cause very similar symptoms.

Furry Feather Calathea wants compost that holds useful moisture without becoming heavy and airless.

A good peat free houseplant compost mixed with something like fine bark, coir and a little perlite works really well.

The aim is a soft, moisture retentive mix that still lets plenty of oxygen reach the roots.

Avoid extremely chunky mixes that dry out too quickly and dense compost that stays waterlogged for days.

Feed while the plant is actively growing.

Through spring and summer, a balanced liquid houseplant fertiliser around once a month is normally plenty.

Reduce or stop feeding as growth slows through autumn and winter.

Feeding should support healthy growth rather than try to force it. If the plant is unhappy because of light, water or roots, more fertiliser is not going to negotiate a peace treaty.

Repot when the roots have properly filled the nursery pot, watering has become difficult or the compost has started breaking down.

Spring or early summer is usually the easiest time while fresh growth is underway.

Move up by one sensible pot size rather than putting a relatively small root system into a huge pot of damp compost.

Furry Feather Calathea likes a comfortable home. It does not need its own five bedroom detached planter.

Very little pruning is needed.

Remove fully yellow, brown or crispy leaves by cutting the petiole cleanly near the base.

If a damaged leaf is still mostly green, leave it in place while it is still helping the plant.

Fresh foliage emerges from the base, so cutting healthy leaves will not make the plant branch or become bushier.

Those beautifully textured leaves do not need polishing, but keeping them reasonably free from dust helps them look their best and keeps the leaf surface clear.

If dust builds up, gently wipe the upper surface with a soft damp cloth or our microfibre dusting gloves while supporting the leaf underneath.

Be a little gentler around the fuzzy undersides and petioles (leaf stems), where the fine hairs are most noticeable, and keep commercial leaf shine products well away from this one.

The easiest way to propagate Furry Feather Calathea is by dividing an established plant.

Repotting time is usually perfect because you can gently separate sections of the rhizome and root system while everything is already out of the pot.

Each division should have healthy roots and its own growing points rather than being pulled apart into tiny pieces for the sake of making more plants.

Give the divisions warmth, humidity and consistent moisture while they settle into their new little bit of Jungle.

Brown or crispy leaf edges

Very common with Prayer Plants. Check humidity, watering consistency, water quality and root health rather than assuming there is one single cause.

Leaves curling inwards

The plant may be too dry, too cold or struggling with very dry air. Check the compost and the environment before automatically watering.

Yellowing leaves

One old leaf occasionally yellowing is normal. Lots at once can point towards overly wet compost, cold roots or poor drainage.

Faded or bleached foliage

Strong direct sunlight may be washing out or scorching the leaves.

Leaves staying tightly curled

Check for severe dryness, root problems, temperature stress and pests.

Growth has slowed or stopped

This is normal during winter. During the growing season, check light, warmth, nutrition and root health.

Fresh leaves are smaller than previous growth

Recent stress, root disturbance, poor light or inconsistent care can temporarily reduce leaf size.

Spider mites are one of the main pests worth watching for. Look underneath the leaves for pale speckling, very fine webbing and tiny moving mites, especially if the air has been warm and dry.

Whitefly may occasionally appear around the foliage as tiny white flying insects that lift off when the plant is disturbed.

Mealybugs can hide around petiole bases and dense growth as small white cottony patches.

Fungus gnats may appear around consistently moist compost. A few adults are mostly annoying, but larger numbers are a useful reminder to check whether the substrate is staying wetter than necessary.

Those fuzzy stems give you plenty to look at, so having a quick pest check while you are admiring them is never a bad Jungle habit.